Wave patterns and sediment mixing near coral reefs

Higgins, P.J., Read, W.W., and Belward, S.R. (2006) Wave patterns and sediment mixing near coral reefs. In: Proceedings of Pacem in Maribus XXXI Conference , pp. 370-384. From: Pacem in Maribus XXXI Conference: Building Bridges Towards Integrated Oceans Governance: Linking Ocean Science, Engineering, Technology and Policy, 31 October - 3 November 2005, Townsville, QLD, Australia.

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Abstract

Most models of the wave patterns surrounding coral reefs are for incident waves and are based on the assumption that the waves are infinitesimally small. The research effort thus far has focused on the attenuation and/or refraction of these waves as they pass over the reef. However, it is now possible to accurately model finite amplitude waves and flow patterns that do not depend on the amplitude of the wave. These solutions are obtained from the fully non‐linear equations for fluid flow over topography. In contrast to previous research, we will consider the wave pattern generated by the flow of water over the reef. Solutions are presented for the wave patterns and velocity profiles for a reef located off the North Queensland coast near Townsville. We present results for fully non‐linear flow and compare them with the linear solutions. We investigate the parameter values that change the wave profile, in particular the size and shape of the reef. As these solutions are analytical, the velocity field is immediately available. We provide velocity fields for the reef and show that there is a significant change to the vertical component of the velocity for the finite amplitude waves compared with linear wave theory. We briefly discuss the effect this has on sediment mixing and deposition around the reef.

Item ID: 4329
Item Type: Conference Item (Refereed Research Paper - E1)
Keywords: wave patterns models; non-linear flow; linear wave theory
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ISBN: 978-92-95054-00-4
Date Deposited: 16 Jun 2009 00:55
FoR Codes: 01 MATHEMATICAL SCIENCES > 0102 Applied Mathematics > 010207 Theoretical and Applied Mechanics @ 50%
01 MATHEMATICAL SCIENCES > 0103 Numerical and Computational Mathematics > 010302 Numerical Solution of Differential and Integral Equations @ 50%
SEO Codes: 97 EXPANDING KNOWLEDGE > 970101 Expanding Knowledge in the Mathematical Sciences @ 75%
97 EXPANDING KNOWLEDGE > 970102 Expanding Knowledge in the Physical Sciences @ 15%
97 EXPANDING KNOWLEDGE > 970106 Expanding Knowledge in the Biological Sciences @ 10%
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